montenegro


19
Oct 08

Finally, a financial crisis for Montenegro

Although Serbia has just declared that it is in no way a financial basketcase, Montenegro has ambled along as usual, the inhabitants seemingly unfazed by the structural collapse of international finance. The Montenegrin economy doesn’t on the face of it seem to have much exposure, and the individual Montenegrin even less than that. There are two choices for most people about where they keep their money: in a bank or under the mattress.

In the last week or so, the mattress has been the clear winner. I went to my bank on three occasions to find the lobby packed and stacked with people withdrawing large chunks of their money. The ATM was running out of money as fast as they could fill it, and the bank manager had declared a cap on the amount of money that could be withdrawn daily (which kind of screwed me, to be honest – the workers need beer money, financial crisis or no).

One reason for this is that many adult Montenegrins remember a time when they really did lose all their money as the economy collapsed. After sanctions were imposed by the UN in 1992, accompanied by the collapse of Yugoslavia as an economic entity, the economy basically went to the floor, including some heavy heavy hyper-inflation (4667% in mid-1993 – more details roughly here). When Djukanovic took Montenegro away from the Serbian economy by switching to the Mark in 2000-2001, Montenegrins suffered again, this time from internal sanctions imposed by Serbia.

So, unlike us pampered westerners (with a banking system that actually worked, up until a few weeks ago), their mistrust is well-placed and their response entirely rational. Of course that response is also one reason that banks collapse, as everybody rushes to withdraw their money and the banks fail to shoulder that burden – so the response is also irrational in the sense that it’s a self-fulfilling prophecy. Which brings me around to Stumbling and Mumbling’s post on recent rationality.

While I agree that Nicholas Nassim Taleb’s writing is trivially true12, I don’t think that Stumbly (as a fully paid-up member of the economists’ conspiracy) really gets it:

It looks like we were wrong and Taleb right. But this isn’t because Taleb had any great insights into the nature of risk. It‘s because he thought banks‘ risk managers were idiots, whilst economists didn’t think so – not even me. In doing this, however, we were just following economists’ standard procedure – of assuming that agents were if not rational then at least not wholly stupid. For me, all this is very troubling.  It suggests that what we economists have to learn from Taleb has nothing to do with the nature of risk – we‘ve all known that – but about others’ rationality. We should ditch the assumption – which in a sense is mere courtesy – not only that others are rational but even the weaker assumption that they are nearly so. Perhaps we should indeed regard them merely as “empty suits.

  1. He’s basically a Gladwell. []
  2. A Gladwell being a writer who has a gift for taking other people’s insights and, while not claiming those insights for themselves, makes it appear as if they’ve developed an entirely new hypothesis. []

10
Oct 08

Why I’ll never be a successful pundit

Montenegro recognises Kosovo, and I take back everything I said previously about the likelihood of this happening. This is of course deeply ironic considering my previous post on Doug Muir’s admission of error regarding the fruits of independence – at least his predictions were good for two years, whereas mine lasted for about two months.

What’s amusing about this is the timing. The summer season finished a couple of weeks ago, which means that the moderate numbers of Serbs who still holiday in Montenegro have all gone home, and less potential for any “citizen action”, “boycotts” or the like. Montenegrin Serbs are incensed – but in the Balkans, which club would you rather be a member of: the friends of Kosova or the friends of Serbia? In the latter case, membership has distinctly fewer advantages.


8
Oct 08

Montenegro Adventure Race 2008: not such a good idea as last year

Driving rain? 5m visibility? No training? It must be the Montenegro Adventure Race 2008! At the last minute I put together a team to take part in a roller-coaster ride of a race, albeit a roller-coaster that only went down. At least Team Property Styling didn’t have the 20-a-day smoking habit that Team Pluto had, which we felt gave us a fighting chance of not coming in last.1The course this year was different to last:

  • Starting in Kotor Stari Grad, we ran up the side of Vrmac – although not so much ran as climbed, since that old Austro-Hungarian road hasn’t seen much maintenance since the end of the Austro-Hungarian empire in 1918. Lightning strikes have left burnt-out trees reclining across the road, occasionally losing their purchase on the slippery stones and plummeting down the nearly-vertical mountainside.

  • The bike leg went over Vrmac to Gornja Lastva and down to the Tivat waterfront – usually a magnificent route, in this case marred slightly by the massive cloud bank that shrouded the top of the ridge and the fact that all our bikes had dodgy gears and slow punctures. The downhill to Gornja Lastva was the site of my ankle injury last year, and this year it was the turn of my knees to get the Vrmac treatment. I now walk with two limps.

  • The weather was so bad that the kayak leg was almost cancelled, but at the last minute the organisers decided to give us all a sprint finish of 3km from Tivat to Bijela through pouring rain, which was about as much fun as it sounds. Luckily we’d finished the bike leg ahead of most the other contestants, so we were able to wait in a conveniently located bar drinking cappucinos and beer, which took the edge off the kayak considerably.

Although it sounds pretty hellish, I was glad that I’d returned to the fray – and by some miracle Team Property Styling placed 2nd. That’s right, 2nd. Can the gold medal be far away? Find out next year, when the team will consist of four morbidly obese chainsmoking agoraphobics who don’t like getting dirty. Thanks once again to the race organisers at Black Mountain and Kayak Montenegro, upon whom I swear I’ll have my revenge, the various sponsors, and my solid gold team-mates Adrian Simpson, James Horgan and Marcus Parry.

All featured featured photos are at RW’s website, doing a sterling job as official race photographer.

  1. Although I’d originally registered the team as The Last Orders, on the basis that we would probably cross the finish line around 11pm. []

5
Oct 08

Call me Ismail

This week, legendary sports journalist Rod Curtis was my guest at the building site that I call home. Rod lives in Tirana, and drives the only car currently available in Albania, a black Merc. It’s been a pleasure having him here, except when he wakes me up at 4 in the morning staggering around the house in a drunken stupor trying to turn the lights out by punching them.

My neighbour Adrian was in our local supermarket last week. The nice ladies who work there informed him of their suspicions that the Muslim who lives in our village is a member of al-Qaeda. Adrian was naturally puzzled, since there are no Muslims in our village, until he realised that they meant me. Breaking it down:

Beard + Albanian car = member of al-Qaeda

I’m fairly certain that I’ll never be able to shake their suspicions, no matter how much evidence we present. On the plus side, it’s unlikely that anybody in the village is going to try anything funny if they think I might carbomb their house.


29
Sep 08

A big man for Montenegro

It takes a big man to admit that they were wrong. Doug Muir is a big man. Two years ago Doug was arguing that independence for Montenegro was a bad idea, but this past week he has recanted that heresy and now admits that maybe it wasn’t as much of a bad idea as he originally thought. Certainly his admission is slightly grudging – pointing out that Montenegrin government is still “corrupt, inbred, intolerant of criticism, and deeply linked with regional criminal elites” is clearly not unqualified support. Doug, I salute you!

However I think he is fair to point out that there’s still time for things to go wrong. If the tourism continues to dry up, the construction boom will be over; if global recession takes hold, the garment trade is going to go down the toilet. If the economy in general tanks, then dissatisfaction means that Serb and Albanian nationalism will both start to grow – which means that political class will find it increasingly hard to keep the boat from rocking. Suddenly Montenegro won’t look so appealling, investment will start to dry up and it could turn into a long spiral down.

I hope that doesn’t happen, personally. One thing I’m sure of; no matter what happens in Montenegro, Podgorica is never going to be a nice place.


16
Apr 08

You’re Moving Where Now?

Rupert and family are moving from the wilds of London to the far more civilised Vancouver Island in Canada, which I believe used to be part of the British Empire until they had their membership revoked for being too close to the US. (Geography fact: Vancouver Island has a larger population than Montenegro.)

Rupert Howe

I’m proud to say that I knew Rupert before he became a big vlogging star and sold out to The Man – he directed our award-winning (ahem) short film “Tracks”, back when we were in short trousers. For a while I was worried that he would drop out of film-making completely, but he came back from a completely unexpected angle – using his mobile phone camera to shoot and edit short films about his life.

Video-blogging can easily turn into navel-gazing, but he managed to avoid this when he started out by posting what were essentially comedy sketches about a movie geek trapped in a dull office job in his dad’s company. The fact that Rupert was in fact a movie geek trapped in a dull office job in his dad’s company only made the sketches funnier. And sadder. But mainly funnier.

Now he’s all growed up – married to Kate, father of Amy, and no longer working in the dull office job – and his vlogs focus on his real life as opposed to his fantasy life. It’s great stuff, mainly because his slightly manic delivery makes for compelling viewing, but he’s also just a great bloke. Witness one of his recent posts, where he laments the annihilation of the local Post Office and interviews his local PO manager Mrs Patel.

The Minute wishes him the best of British in the New World. Please do keep videoblogging – I would join you, except my cellphone is nowhere near as flash as yours.


10
Apr 08

Meet the Neighbours

My life: a goat and a bag of cement.

Please, no obscene jokes.