On the way back from Barisal, we stopped in Gaurnadi, which is apparently famous in Bangladesh for its sweets. That meant a lot more rosh ghulam, rosh malai and a bunch of other milk-based products. I particularly liked the look of the shop that we visited, where the jars of curd were lined up on the front counter.

The sweets of Gaurnadi are famous because they’re made of fresh milk, rather than the condensed milk that is used in most other places. In the back room, weathered cooks hunch over boiling pans of white gold while stone jars line the shelves behind them. It’s all about the atmosphere, really.

In the end, we bought about eight boxes of different sweets to take back to Dhaka, and I sampled five different kinds, from the milky to the crunchy to the frankly odd. The rest of the car journey I spent buzzing off a sugar rush, which was a good thing, as it was about 6 hours of fairly similar and not particularly good roads.


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